And what they offer today
Brooches are arguably the oldest form of jewellery, with pins dating back to the Bronze Age, over 2000 years ago. In these times brooches were crafted from fairly rudimentary materials like flint, thorns and base metals, with the primary purpose of securing clothing.
What began as a purely functional pin became an ornamental addition to clothing during the Byzantine Era, the 5th century AD to 1450’s. Worn by the vikings as cloak fasteners, then popular with the knights to fasten capes and tunics. During the Middle Ages the elite and clergymen wore brooches that were embellished with gemstones and pearls as a symbol of their status.
Buttons were introduced to clothing in the 13th century, shifting the role of brooches from functional to a more decorative accessory. Brooches continued to be extravagant in design and predominantly worn by the upper classes as a status symbol throughout the Tudor Era of 1485–1603.
It was in the 18th and 19th centuries that brooches became popular among women as decorative jewellery to accessorise clothing. This change in social norms saw the design of brooches become smaller and more delicate. The way brooches were worn also expanded to meet a broader range of needs. Aigrette pieces were worn as hair accessories and En Tremblant pins were popular, many as flowers or winged creatures, with moving parts, designed to catch the light. The Victorian Era of 1837-1901 saw the emergence of Cameos and European Tour brooches as popular choices among the upper echelons of society.
Late in the Victorian Era, the love brooch became an accessible jewellery purchase for everyday members of society. Crafted from sheets of silver, with decorative overlays of gold, enamel and gemstone. Love brooches were an affordable piece of jewellery, often gifted as a token of affection.
During the 20th century brooch styles became even more diverse with art deco designs, jabot pins and the addition of dress clips to adorn clothes, bags and shoes. The applications for brooches and pins had expanded, from decorating clothes, to adorning accessories too.
Brooches have a full history, worn by both men and women. And now, in the 21st century there’s been a resurgence in the popularity of brooches and pins. Whether your preference is a single, bold, statement piece or a cluster of colour and sparkle to embellish an outfit.
Brooches can be seen worn in the hair, on a lapel, at the collarbone, on the neckline or collar of a shirt, on a sweater, a hat or bag, at the waist of a dress or skirt, to cinch the back of a blazer, at a deep V on the back of a top or dress, on a scarf or as a tie pin. Be creative or conservative with the application, in the 21st century brooches are worn as an expression of individuality and personal style.
View our range of vintage pieces for more inspiration or checkout Substack for more roccoco articles.
